Fuel Price Adjustment Date Confirmed: Here's What Drivers Need to Know

Deep News
Sep 06

As of September 6, only five days remain until the 18th domestic refined oil price adjustment window of 2026, which opens at 24:00 on September 11. The current pricing cycle is now more than halfway through its calculation period. Based on the latest measurements, gasoline and diesel are projected to increase by 160 yuan per tonne and 155 yuan per tonne respectively. When converted to costs at the terminal fuel pump, 92-octane gasoline is expected to rise by 0.13 yuan per litre, 95-octane gasoline by 0.14 yuan per litre, and 0-diesel by 0.13 yuan per litre. For a typical family car with a 50-litre fuel tank, filling up after the adjustment will cost an additional 6.5 to 7 yuan.

When is the fuel price adjustment happening?

The upcoming adjustment on September 11 will mark the 18th pricing window of the year. With the statistical period already past its midpoint, the current forecast points to a moderate increase. The projected hike of approximately 160 yuan per tonne for gasoline translates to a modest burden for everyday drivers, with the full-tank surcharge for a standard sedan falling in the range of 6.5 to 7 yuan. This adjustment reflects ongoing fluctuations in international crude oil markets, which remain the primary driver behind domestic fuel pricing mechanisms.

Are these driving habits damaging your automatic transmission vehicle?

The widespread adoption of automatic transmission vehicles has fundamentally changed our driving habits. However, improper driving practices can lead to minor mechanical issues at best, and serious safety hazards at worst. The following six common misconceptions are particularly prevalent among drivers today.

Misconception One: Keeping the gear in D and holding the brake while waiting at a red light

Incorrect practice: Most car owners habitually keep the gear lever in D (drive) and press the brake pedal while waiting at traffic lights, believing this allows for quicker acceleration and adds convenience. However, during this time, the clutch inside the transmission operates in a semi-engaged state. The engine's power is forcibly cut off by the braking system, which reduces the transmission oil pump's rotation speed and slows down oil circulation, preventing effective cooling of the clutch plates. Correct practice: For short waits, you can remain in D with the brake applied, but avoid frequent hard stops. For longer waits of 30 seconds or more, shift to N (neutral) and engage the handbrake. This completely disconnects the power transmission, allowing the oil pump to function normally and keeping oil temperature stable. If the vehicle needs to be fully locked, such as when parking on an incline, engage P (park), but be aware that shifting directly from D to P increases wear on the locking mechanism. The proper sequence should be D gear, then N gear, then handbrake, and finally P gear.

Misconception Two: Shifting into R before the vehicle has come to a complete stop

Incorrect practice: Some drivers force the gear lever from D or R into the opposite direction before the vehicle has fully stopped, such as accidentally touching the lever while still moving forward or shifting to reverse without braking to a halt. At this moment, the internal gears are still spinning at high speed, and suddenly engaging the reverse gear causes violent collisions between gear teeth. This can result in chipped gears and metal shavings in the worst cases, or even broken gears and a damaged transmission housing. Correct practice: After the vehicle has completely stopped, press the brake and wait one to two seconds to confirm there is no residual rolling motion before shifting from D to R. Similarly, when transitioning from reverse to drive, ensure the vehicle is fully stationary before making the shift to avoid the dangerous habit of accelerating before the reversal is complete.

Misconception Three: Coasting in neutral to save fuel

Incorrect practice: Many drivers believe that shifting into neutral while coasting reduces engine resistance and lowers fuel consumption. However, in modern automatic vehicles, the ECU automatically cuts off fuel injection when coasting in gear, a feature known as deceleration fuel cut-off, which results in zero fuel consumption. In contrast, when coasting in neutral, the engine must maintain idle speed, which actually consumes more fuel, approximately 0.8 to 1.2 litres per hour. More critically, when in neutral, the transmission output shaft spins at high speed while the oil pump fails to supply adequate lubrication due to the disconnected gear, leading to dry friction that accelerates wear on clutch plates and gears. Correct practice: Remain in D gear or use a low gear in manual mode to utilize engine braking, which assists in slowing the vehicle and reduces the burden on the braking system, preventing brake overheating and failure. For extremely steep slopes, activate the hill descent control feature if available, or manually switch to a lower gear to ensure safety.

Misconception Four: Shifting directly into P when parking

Incorrect practice: Many car owners push the gear lever directly into P and then engage the handbrake when parking. At this point, the transmission's locking pawl engages with the groove in the output shaft gear to secure the vehicle. However, if the car is parked on an incline or uneven surface, the vehicle's weight is transmitted through the gears to the locking mechanism, causing intense pressure between the pawl and the gear. Over time, this leads to pawl deformation, gear wear, and even difficulty in shifting out of P. Correct practice: Press the brake, shift to N, engage the handbrake, release the brake to confirm the vehicle does not roll, and then shift to P. For parking on slopes: press the brake, shift to N, pull the handbrake firmly to bear the vehicle's weight, release the brake, and then engage P. In this scenario, the transmission serves only as an auxiliary lock, and the locking mechanism experiences minimal stress, significantly extending its service life.

Misconception Five: Aggressive acceleration immediately after a cold start

Incorrect practice: In winter or after extended parking, transmission fluid becomes more viscous and less fluid due to low temperatures. If the driver immediately accelerates aggressively after a cold start, the internal gears and clutch plates may not receive adequate lubrication in time, causing direct metal-on-metal friction that accelerates wear and may even create scoring. Correct practice: Warm up gently and drive at low speeds. After starting a cold engine, let it idle for 30 seconds to one minute, without prolonged stationary warming, until the engine speed settles into its normal range of approximately 800 to 1000 rpm. For the first five minutes of driving, maintain a speed of no more than 40 km/h, and avoid sudden acceleration or hard braking, allowing the transmission fluid to gradually reach its proper operating temperature. In extremely cold conditions below minus 20 degrees Celsius, extend the idling period to one or two minutes, or use a transmission fluid heater if your vehicle is equipped with one.

Misconception Six: Never changing the transmission fluid

Incorrect practice: Some car owners believe automatic transmissions are maintenance-free or have fallen for the myth that the fluid never needs changing, leaving the transmission fluid unserviced for years on end. Transmission fluid not only lubricates gears and clutch plates but also performs critical functions such as cooling, cleaning, and transmitting power through the torque converter. Over time, metal debris and oxidation byproducts accumulate in the fluid, forming sludge that clogs oil passages, resulting in rough shifting, unusual noises, and even transmission overheat protection that causes sudden loss of power. Correct practice: For AT (torque converter automatic transmissions), change the fluid every 60,000 to 80,000 kilometres or every four to five years, whichever comes first. For CVT (continuously variable transmissions), change it every 40,000 to 60,000 kilometres or every three to four years, as the steel belt produces more metal debris. For DCT (dual-clutch transmissions), change it every 60,000 to 80,000 kilometres or every four to five years, with dry dual-clutch units requiring even more frequent inspections.

Final reminder: Scientific maintenance is the key to longevity

Traffic authorities urge drivers to remember that the automatic feature of an automatic transmission does not mean it is maintenance-free. Drivers should abandon experiential reliance on old-school habits and instead follow scientific operating standards. Regularly servicing the transmission is the only way to keep your vehicle performing at its best over the long term.

Disclaimer: Investing carries risk. This is not financial advice. The above content should not be regarded as an offer, recommendation, or solicitation on acquiring or disposing of any financial products, any associated discussions, comments, or posts by author or other users should not be considered as such either. It is solely for general information purpose only, which does not consider your own investment objectives, financial situations or needs. TTM assumes no responsibility or warranty for the accuracy and completeness of the information, investors should do their own research and may seek professional advice before investing.

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